Description
A quiet refusal in Tyrian purple silk and gold
What defines a cheongsam — its collar, its cut, or its myth? “Not a Cheongsam Dress” asks this question by keeping only the Mandarin collar and discarding the rest. Its flared A-line silhouette ends just above the thigh, inviting pairing with shorts or leggings — a modern gesture that contrasts with the cheongsam’s later high slit and nods to its historical origins of wearing pantalons beneath.
Crafted from a repurposed silk kimono with gold-painted outlines in Tyrian purple, this piece carries the legacy of surihaku — the Japanese art of pressing gold onto silk — which itself descends from Han–Song Chinese gold-printing techniques. In this way, the dress becomes a circle of cultural return. Its title is deliberately ironic: if “cheongsam” has been flattened by exotic expectations, this piece restores depth through ambiguity — both is and is not what the viewer assumes.
One-of-a-Kind & Bespoke Options
This exact design is unique; once sold, it cannot be reproduced. However, you may customize your own version in other fabrics, designs, or colors — some equally intricate and brilliant — including repurposed kimono or obi silks.
For a low-maintenance alternative, the same cut can be executed in synthetic fabrics, which are machine washable and easier to care for.
Materials & Lining
Repurposed silk kimono with gold accents (this piece)
Synthetic brocade options with cotton lining, machine washable
Silk or cotton lining options available upon request
Timeframe & Consultations
As this piece is unique, delivery is within 5 working days if purchased.
For custom orders, please allow approximately 3 months from fabric confirmation and measurements. Expedited orders (minimum 1.5 months) can be arranged at additional cost.
Appointments for textile selection and measurements are available at the studio (Mon–Fri, 10 am–5 pm, excluding public holidays). Remote consultations via email or WhatsApp are also available.
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